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net zero victorian insulation
Photo Credit: Stewart Herman

1. Insulating the house from the outside.

Typically, old homes are insulated by tearing out the interior walls and putting in fiberglass batts, or punching holes in the walls to fill with cellulose or other types of insulation. This home used the “PERSIST” (Pressure Equalized Rain Screen Insulated Structure Technique) insulating system, which involves insulating the house from outside. But because the walls were pushed out, they had to apply for a variance in the permitting process—which was eventually granted, but it did delay the project. The benefit of adding insulation on the outside was that no space was lost on the inside. (In theory, it would also mean that fine plaster walls could be preserved, but they needed to gut them for HVAC and plumbing access.) The result was highly insulated walls, rated at R-40.

net zero victorian insulation and moisture control
Photo Credit: Stewart Herman

2.    Making the house “tight” while controlling moisture.

Much heat and moisture are lost through leaky walls. This house was wrapped in a sticky membrane made by 3M, which prevents moisture from becoming trapped and causing mold or rot. Forty percent of the insulation is inside the 3M barrier, and moisture will evaporate back into the living space, where humidity averages a comfortable 40 to 45 percent. The other sixty percent of the insulation was outside the 3M barrier but inside the Tyvek barrier. Air (and moisture) are allowed to circulate freely under the siding without entering the house. The result is that the house is almost five times tighter than building code requires, and practically meets the Passive House standard.

net zero victorian sunroom

3.    Insulating the basement without tearing up the flowerbeds.

A tight house needs to keep heat in the basement from leaking out. Typically in remodels, basement walls are insulated on the inside (which would have lost square footage and would not have been very effective), or a deep wide trench is dug to insulate the foundation (which would have made a huge mess, and there was not much room on the lot to do so). This project used the “Cocoon” method of sucking out a four-inch-wide slice of dirt all the way down to the footings of the foundation, then inserting a one-inch foam sheet and 3 inches of sprayed foam. The net insulating effect is R-30, with very little mess to clean up. (See more about excavation-less insulation retrofits.)

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Article By

Melissa Rappaport Schifman

Melissa became the Twin Cities’ fifth LEED for Homes Accredited Professional (LEED AP) and completed the work necessary to get her own home LEED Gold Certified, the basis for her book, Building a Sustainable Home: Practical Green Design Choices for Your Health, Wealth, and Soul, (Skyhorse Publishing, August, 2018). With her corporate experience in finance, marketing, and business development, and an MBA and Master’s in Public Policy from the University of Chicago, Melissa has been providing sustainability advisory services to businesses, governmental agencies and non-profits, focusing on strategic and operational change that provide bottom-line financial returns. She has led the LEED certification of two million square feet of commercial buildings, written GRI-compliant Corporate Sustainability Reports, is a LEED Pro Reviewer and LEED mentor with the U.S. Green Building Council. She is the founder of Green Intention LLC where she writes about sustainable home living.

Melissa Rappaport Schifman